Into the Wild of Dooars

The core of mans' spirit comes from new experiences.

                                                                  (from the movie, 'Into the Wild')

Our Dooars trip was unquestionable proof of that.

The Preparation

The trip was planned in haste. We - Bijit, Soumya (bhai), and myself, were planning to escape the mundane KGP life for the last few days of the year 2012 that would be left and go someplace where we could invigorate ourselves and come back to start afresh in the new year. After a few discussions, we agreed to go to the forest of Jayanti (Alipurduar, North Bengal, India) in Dooars. The Dooars are the foothills and floodplains of the eastern Himalayas in North-East India around Bhutan. It means door or gateway to Bhutan from India [courtesy: Wikipedia]. We booked our tickets to Alipurduar from Sealdah in the tatkal quota just a day before the journey. Apart from the affirmation of a comfortable train journey,  everything else was impromptu and hence the trip was full of expectations of unexpected events.

Journey Begins

The Ukulele

As per schedule, we boarded the Kanchankanya Express at Sealdah station on 27th December 2012 carrying our backpacks filled up only with the essentials - woolen jackets to beat the cold, dry foods and medicines for emergencies, and a camera. Bhai brought his newly bought Ukulele which, of late, became a great companion adding the sweet harmony of country music with a splendid journey from NJP station to Alipurduar through the refreshing greenery of Dooars keeping the silhouette of the Himalayan range at a far distance on the backdrop of a clear blue firmament. The journey was indeed a joyride. The train reached Alipurduar (junction) at 3 p.m., three hours later than its scheduled arrival time. This forced us to drop the plan of visiting Pukuri lake near the village of Jayanti because by the time we would reach Jayanti from Alipurduar, it would be too dark to trek to the Pukuri. Anyhow, we went to the office of Buxa Tiger Reserve (BTR) at Alipurduar Court from the station by auto. There, although we did not inform about our arrival  a priori (later, we came to know that

The train running through the forest to Alipurduar

this is mandatory to confirm the reservation), we managed to book a room of the forest department bungalow at Jayanti courtesy of our IIT tag. The distance of Jayanti from Alipurduar is about 15 Km. most of which runs through a deep forest of Dooars, and the road is often blocked by a herd of elephants. As it was almost dusk at that time, no local car was agreeing to go to Jayanti. After miserably failing to find a conveyance, with the kind help of an official of BTR, we convinced a local auto driver. Soon we left the town behind us and entered the kingdom of a dense forest. By that time darkness had already embraced the forest. Apart from the headlights of the auto, the only source of light was the full moon which was peeking through the woods. On the way to Jayanti, we collected our permit from a check-post of the forest department. After a one-hour drive through the forest, finally, we reached Jayanti.

Moonlit Night at the Himalayan Foothill 

Jayanti is a very small village located along the river Jayanti, at the foothills of the Himalayan range and surrounded by dense forest. It has gained popularity among hikers for some beautiful trekking routes to Buxa Fort, Lepchakha, Mahakal, etc. passing through the wilderness of Dooars. The population of the village was not seemed to be more than five hundred. When we reached there, the entire neighborhood was avalanched by the effulgence of the full moon. Some solitary candlelights were gleaming discretely within the village. At a distant view, the eminence of the Himalayan range was standing with self-esteem. I had never been so fortunate to experience this sort of atmosphere and it is really hard to envisage the serenity without feeling every bit of it with all the senses we are gifted with. Being in Jayanti earlier, Bijit knew some localities who were also taking care of the forest bungalow. They guided us to the bungalow. The room, we were allotted, is named as "Dhole" (ঢোল). We did not squander too much time in the coziness of bungalow room. We got refreshed as quickly as possible and went for a stroll to the bank of Jayanti river.  The river forms a   boundary  of  the village with hills

Moonlit night

on other side. It did not contain much water exposing bulk of the river-bed full of rocks of different sizes and shapes. The vast area of the riverbed, being entirely defoliated till the edge from where the hills start, was more chilly compared to that we felt inside the village. Water of the river was shimmering in moonlight and it was so transparent that the pebbles under the water were clearly visible. From the bank, as we were in more proximity, the hills were seeming more enormous. Pointing towards a faraway peak of one of the hills, Bijit told us that it was Mahakal cave where we have to trek the next day. Although we did not know what adventure was in store for us, I got excited thinking about the trekking to the Mahakal. I could not resist to capture the moments. As I was not carrying a tripod, I  had to  take  help of the boulders  to take

At the moonlit night at the bank of Jayanti

long exposure shots. After wandering along the riverbed for some more time we returned to the bungalow and had dinner. Before we bade the day a goodbye and slept, we sat in the balcony of the bungalow with a bottle of rum to enjoy the ambiance. Different sounds coming from the woods relaxed our moods.

Trekking to Lepchakha

On the next day, we got up early. After we get ourselves ready for a day-long trek, we headed towards Santalbari in a jeep. Usually, the trekkers start hiking to Buxa Fort and Lepchakha from Santalbari. 

On the way to Santalbari in a jeep

At Santalbari, we were provided a guide. His name was Subhas. The route to Lepchakha was not too much tiresome for frequent trekkers. Elevation of the path was not too steep. It had some view points from where beautiful landscapes can be viewed. The woods alongside the route shelters different kinds of flora. There are some small small habitats located along the trekking route. We took rest in one such habitation near Buxa Fort before we started again up towards Lepchakha. 

We started trekking to Buxa Fort from Santalbari

Myself with our guide Subhas

Buxa Fort

We took nearly two hours to reach Lepchakha, the apex of that particular hill, at 10 am. The sky was clear providing wonderful opportunity to do photography of a splendid panoramic view. In Lepchakha, there was a small shrine which is known as chorten in Tibetan. From that top, one can enjoy a full view of three rivers - Dima, Bala and Jayanti in one frame.  

 A Chorten at Lepchakha

Jayanti river from Lepchakha

After resting there for 15-20 minutes, we started to descend as fast as possible with a plan to reach Jayanti at the earliest and start hiking to Mahakal from there.

 

A Memorable Experience

With a confidence of completing the trekking route to Boro (বড়, big) Mahakal (there is small naturally formed cave known as Chhoto (ছোটো, small) Mahakal situated on the way to Boro Mahakal) and come back to Jayanti before dusk, we set off to our destination at around 2 pm from Jayanti. Being brave, we did not take any guide with us. The villagers told us to follow the Jayanti river which would eventually lead us to the Boro Mahakal. Hence we moved along the river with the sun almost above the head. After walking for twenty minutes we saw few small trekking camps that were set up around the river bank. From that point, the river branched out into two directions - the main stream and a tributary. The two streams were bifurcated by a forestland. Some people sitting in one of the camps told us to take path along the tributary. They also warned us that it might not be possible to come back before dusk. But we did not care and moved ahead. 

As we were progressing, the hills were appearing colossal, water-level of the river was growing, width of the river was broadening, boulders were becoming bigger in size and the forest, we were passing through, were becoming denser. We had to cross the river often to advance. But, in fact, that was working in our favour as the cold water of the river had a healing effect to our feet which were aching because of constant hiking on top of boulders. After sometime, the sun hid beyond the hills we left behind giving an indication that it would be dark soon. But still there was no sign of Boro Mahakal. I was little bit frightened as I heard from the villagers that elephants often descend from the jungle to the river bank at that time of the day to drink water. 

Chhoto Mahakal

Around 4 pm, we reached a point where we met 2-3 people (by appearances they seemed to be villagers) who told us that we had reached Chhoto Mahakal.

From there we continued to trek thinking that the way to Boro Mahakal would be along the same path. But unfortunately we confronted a dead end impeded by steep elevation of rocks covered by wet and wild shrubs. But we were so enthusiastic that instead of giving up hope, we climbed up the elevation through that thick bush to find out any possible way only to get some bruises and nothing else. After being unsuccessful to find a way out, we retraced and came back to the point where we met those villagers. Then they told us that we were going to wrong direction and we should rather follow the river. They also told that, given the time of the day, it would be very difficult to ascend Boro Mahakal as the path is bewildering and elevated. Also it would not be easy to go back to Jayanti in darkness without a local guide. But there was a hope that we might find a place to spend the night once we reach Boro Mahakal on the top of the hill before it gets too dark and then come back to Jayanti on the next day. 

We got company from Chhoto Mahakal

We were in dilemma to opt for the third option because we did not inform the forest department that we had come to Mahakal and we would not return for that night and it might trigger a chaos. So, we decided not to go to Mahakal but to trek a little farther and return back to Jayanti with one of the villagers being our guide. According to the plan we moved ahead. We got five more people as our company - the villager from Jayanti (Binod Ray), a Bhutanese couple and their four years old daughter and a fisherman. 

As we were moved further, the wild fervor of the atmosphere stirred a madness within our soul and we unanimously decided that we would not return to Jayanti that night and stay in the Mahakal cave. We had sufficient amount of dry foods, chocolates and water with us to sustain one night. So we were not bothered about that. The only thing that was troubling us was the thought of what would be going on back in Jayanti once the forest department would find us missing. But this ado was entirely evaporated as the mother nature kept on marveling us by her wild beauty. Sometime back I was scared thinking about the uncertainty of the path. But now my soul was fearless and not contemplating any trepidation that might come.

At Bhutan border

After sometime we reached Bhutan border and it was twilight then. Anticipating that it would be impossible to reach Mahakal before it gets dark, the Bhutanese couple invited us to stay with them for that night in their house situated at a valley which is about an hour journey by trek from Bhutan border. That place was within the territory of Bhutan. We gleefully accepted their invitation without a second thought. We came to know that it was their temporary abode. Their ancestral house is faraway from that place where we were going. They had  descended to the valley to cultivate during the  winter   time   and

would go back to their original home just before the advent of rainy season when the route from Jayanti along the river would become totally inaccessible. When we met them near the Chhoto Mahakal, they were returning from Jayanti after collecting their daily necessities like rice, pulses, salt etc. The husband was speaking fluent Bengali but his spouse (her name was Dolam) did not speak any other language except Nepalese. Binod bhaiyaa was acting as interpretor between us and the lady. Binod was their close acquaintance and often go to their house.

 























 










After a long walk, finally, we reached their house situated at the farthest end of a small secluded valley surrounded by hills covered with lush greeneries and vegetation. One side of the valley ended at the edge of one hill and other three sides were separated from hills by the river, locally known as Dimpu. I felt that we had reached the heaven after all those uncertainty we had gone through before reaching there. 

We reached the cottage

The house was made of bamboo sticks and leaves and elevated from the ground by about 5-6 ft. There was only one room. At one corner of the room, an arrangement for cooking was made. They cordially invited us to seat inside the room. With a biting cold outside, interior of the room was kept warm by lighting a fire at one corner of it. We sat in front of the fire to warm ourselves as well dry our clothes which were soaked with water. Dolam served butter-tea. The way she prepared the tea was totally different from what we had known. She churned butter in the boiled water after pouring tea leaves and salt. Later, I came to know that this particular preparation of tea is known as po cha in Tibetan language. Then she asked us whether we would like to have home-made liquor prepared of rice (left for 2-3 days inside a jar for rotting) and juice of bamboo leaves. Needless to say, we did not decline the offer :). 

The fireplace

Dolam prepared liquor for us

On the other side the cottage, the little girl was busy playing with a cat, her only playmate during that brief sojourn in the deserted valley. We came to know that her name was Kin Jang Chuke. Bhai offered chocolates, which we had, to Kin Jang and she took those with delight. After some time we saw the fisherman, whom we met on the way, coming towards the cottage. He brought assorted kinds of fish that he caught during that evening from the river. This made us elated - after all, we are Bengalees. Bhai proposed to cook those fishes and it was approved by our host because they wanted to see how Bengalees prepare fish. 

Bhai preparing fish while Binod bhaiyaa watching

But the amusing part of it that when the fish curry was almost done, Dolam pour two spoons of butter in it. After all these, we had a sumptuous dinner with butter, rice, and fish curry. After the dinner, the fisherman bade adieu and left for catching fish during the night in that freezing temperature. We strolled for some more time on the valley which was literally flooded with moonlight. It was truly an unimaginable atmosphere all around. As we were tired we went to sleep early. Although we were provided two blankets to have a comfortable sleep, the cold was too much to be countered with those. But the overwhelming hospitality and warmth we received since we had arrived there kept us warm for that night.

At a very early morning on the next day, after having butter-tea and hearts filled with joy we bade adieu to our hosts and started to trek to Boro Mahakal with Binod bhaiyaa as guide. 

We

We reached the top of Mahakal after an hour trek along a very steep and formidable route. Mahakal is famous for a cave of Stalactites and Stalagmites forming Siva-Linga and other formations which are regarded as different gods, demigods and deities depicted in Hindu mythology. There was a Naga-sadhu who lives inside the cave. 

Ascending to the cave in Boro Mahakal

After spending some time inside the cave, we started to descend. Then for the first time, I realized that descending the declivity of a hill is more difficult than climbing it up, because one needs to balance the entire weight of one's body on one's legs while descending down a steep height. However, Bhai, being experienced with more difficult trekking routes, guided us safely to the foothill.

After two hours of walking from the foothill of Boro Mahakal we reached Jayanti. And with no surprise, we noticed that the villagers were looking at us as if we came from some alien planet. After asking one of them we came to know that the officials of the forest department and some villagers searched the forest rigorously with jeeps and searchlights till 3 am of previous night to find us and after failing to obtain any trace, they thought we were in grave danger. Then we went to the office of forest department to find out that they were about to fax a lost FIR to the Alipurduar police station. After finding us standing in front of them live and healthy, they seemed to be in great relief. The Ranger scolded us for going to trek Mahakal without informing them, but it did not bother us as we were still inside a dream. 

We returned to Kolkata on the eve of new year with a memory that will not fade away and will be cherished forever as long as we live.